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Hanging upside-down off the back of a wildly bobbing boat is not the best time to do the grocery shopping.Eye-to-eye contact is, I'm told, a key to successful bartering but, like keeping my breakfast down, I'm finding it hard to maintain.

Up front, a fuggy breeze rolls in over the canal banks.

Egrets roost like ripe fruit in the cashew trees; a pink sunset slips over the rice paddies.

If northern India is an assault on the senses, southern India is a feast for them.

In Kerala, spice plantations, rustling palms and the click of rickety bicycles replaces the north's fury of tuk-tuks, fumes and frenetic streets.

Here, the warmth of ginger trumps chilli and dishes sing with beachy, South-east Asian flavours: coconut, lime, tamarind and coriander.

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